DUKE + DEXTER discuss delving into the archive for its latest Playboy collaboration

Guys, thanks for taking time out for this. Before we dive into your Playboy launches, can you give us a bit of background to the company?
Simply put, we saw a gap in the footwear market for an updated take on smarter formals and captured it. We put our twist on the classics… We began working with athletes, musicians, artists, designers, photographers and pioneers to refine styles that combine the most premium materials from Italy with old school production techniques honed by the best shoemakers across England and Portugal, too.

Today, we produce a lot more than just formals but we’re still designing for those who go against the grain. As we say, we’re “Defined by the process of creating product that tells stories with the people who inspire us and lifestyles we relate to.” So, we’ve found ourselves in this space by putting the finer details first, and taking pride in everything we do. From product to stories, and the community continually growing around D+D.

What appealed about working with the Playboy brand?
This is the third time that DUKE + DEXTER has worked with Playboy on a collaborative capsule. On the first occasion, we hit LA with Luka Sabbat. For our second collaboration we took to the sky in a private jet and joined forces with Sydney Lima to launch our first ever women’s collection. Our third and final launch took place at a local London bodega – where we drew reference to the Playboy magazine covers that have been printed onto the styles. It’s the lifestyle that appeals to us. The notoriety. The authentic legacy… Above all else, it’s the way in which Playboy changed our view on a lot of things.

What kickstarted the design process? How did you get to grips with the IP?
The designs themselves are invocative of Playboy’s incredible history – but stay true to D+D’s progressive nature, referencing the past while still maintaining an approach that empowers and respects. Each pair carries a retro feel but is well and truly rooted in modern style.

“We’re willing to do what other brands would never consider.”

As with everything, respect plays a major role in any collaboration; especially one with a name such as Playboy. There are certain limitations that accompany all pieces of art, meaning a continual back-and-forth of transparent, honest dialogue was important to keep all parties happy. Bottom line, we’re adding someone else’s artwork to a blank canvas of our own and we have great respect and understanding of the process.

Absolutely. Can you talk us through some of your favourite design details in the collection?
Our team worked through Playboy’s incredible archive of cover shoots for this one. We’d used magazine covers for our first collaboration together, however this was the next step. Instead of printing the covers as they could be found online or in print, we altered their appearance to sit on the vamp of our Wild Penny Loafer in a way that represented D+D. It was about considering stories beyond face value.

We brought back the original Femlin illustrations (originals by Leroy Neiman) from the Party Joke pages between 1955 and 2012. We selected three memorable cover shoots from 1975, 1988 and 2015 – two of which were in circulation before a majority of the team were even born. If anything, our favourite details aren’t found on the shoe, they’re in the stories we’re telling.

What is the key to crafting great footwear based on brands?
Taste and authenticity. If you are to collaborate with anyone, or utilise licensed artwork, each step has to be fulfilled in good taste. As we mentioned before, if a collaboration is respectful on all fronts, executed to the best of our – or any brand’s – ability, then it’s sure to align with the licensed consumer.

“The designs themselves are invocative of Playboy’s incredible history – but stay true to D+D’s progressive nature.”

On this occasion, we remained true to Playboy’s ethos with a clean, classic Wilde Penny Loafer as a canvas before adopting a selection of our favourite cover shoots. While any collaboration or partnership is aligned to raise the profile of either brand within the other’s consumer-base, it should also make sense… To both parties.

Guys, tremendous insights. Thank you! Last question: How do you fuel your creativity? What helps you have ideas?
We’re willing to do what other brands would never consider. We create product with purpose, with a legitimate reason to exist and not because we ‘should’. It’s never been about abiding by social media trends; it’s only ever been about enriching a community that appreciates new and genuinely exciting footwear. If we didn’t allow our community to fuel the creative process, then we’re not creating for the pioneers and individuals that have helped us grow far outside of London.