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Lucci & Partners’ Paolo Lucci discusses the strengths of the Italian market – and working with the “unparalleled” team at Perfetti van Melle.
Paolo, it’s nice to meet you! To kick us off, what set you on the path into licensing? And how did you come to set up your own agency?
Nice to meet you, Billy, and thank you for this opportunity. When I look at my career and experience, it seems to have been designed to lead me to licensing consultancy… First in an advertising agency – Armando Testa – then in the marketing department of Ferrero, then in sales and trade marketing at Hasbro, and finally at Walt Disney Consumer Products. That’s where I realised the magic of the licensing model – someone else works on your IP, makes it visible… And gives you money for it! A miracle if you look at it from a marketer’s point of view.
But it was all really by chance, I just followed my personal instinct and professional curiosity. In 2001, I found myself with the first agency offering brand extension services in a “blue ocean”, where nobody knew the basics of the licensing business.
Looking at your core Italian market, what are some key considerations around which brands ‘work best’ in Italy compared to other parts of the world?
The main trends here are quite similar to mainstream Europe, with lifestyle brands getting more recognition – even from casual licensees – and manga/anime still growing. There is also quite a momentum for any pop culture reference from the 80s or 90s, be it mass market brands, TV series or blockbusters. I think it’s because brands are looking to add narrative layers to their recognised values, and these are all powerful storytelling IPs.
Category-wise, what are some of the strengths of the Italian licensee community?
Apparel is the first category that comes to mind as the most licensing intensive: this includes basically all apparel retailers and their capsule collections. Luxury brands are showing a slowdown in their collaborations intended as licensed parts of their main collections.
“Perfetti van Melle’s willingness to adapt their brand assets to the creative needs of their partners is unparalleled.”
Why do you think that is?
I guess this is due to the current “quiet luxury” trend. However, it seems to be tiring, as creative directors are realising that all collections seem to be flat and homologated, so there will likely be a renewed interest in this in the future, especially in connection with those pop culture references.
Another common trait of the local licensing community, especially the power users of the licensing model, is the pursuit of knowledge – what’s new, what’s coming, what works – through networking. This probably explains the success of our annual Milano Licensing Day event, which attracts 1,200 visitors in one day.
Yes, congrats on that. Now, let’s talk about Perfetti van Melle! What makes the company’s raft of brands exciting to represent?
First of all, the extraordinary enthusiasm of the Perfetti van Melle team and their care for brand values. Of course, this roster is amazingly rich in iconic brands that the company has built up over time with the greatest marketing acumen. But it’s true that Perfetti van Melle’s licensing team has been a pioneer in building such a robust licensing programme around them for more than two decades now, with an amazing balance between business and creativity. And their willingness to adapt their brand assets to the creative needs of their partners is unparalleled.
You helped bring St Barth and the Big Babol brand together for a striking collection – I like the ducky swim shorts! What made that partnership make sense?
Thank you, but all the credit goes to St Barth’s creativity and the brilliant ideas of the founder – Massimiliano Ferrari. The duck is a staple of their collections, and the addition of the bubble was quite immediate, since the first kick-off meeting. What I really like about it is the follow-up on the next seasons, where the bubble turned a swordfish, a shark and other dangerous species into funny characters… Right up to the cuddly dogs and poodles, always blowing a bubble, of this season.
Sticking with ducks, The Ugly Duck launched a really interesting line of Chupa Chups figures. What was it about TUD’s approach to design that felt a neat fit for Chupa Chups?
This is where Salvador Dalì and the Chupa Chups art coté come in. The Ugly Duck is brilliantly positioned as a ‘collectable art object’ on the edge of art and interior design, a luxury evolution of vinyl toys. A star like Dalì, who designed the Chupa Chups logo, is the direct link between pop, design and art, just what TUD is looking for in its limited editions. The two colourways – ‘Eggstraw’ and ‘Duckberry’ – are named after Chupa Chups flavours. The amazing video that showcases them is another strong point in the execution.
Are there any other collaborations you’ve struck for Perfetti that you feel highlights how creative licensees can be with their brands?
I particularly like the interpretation we asked Philip Colbert to perform for The Rodnik Band x Chupa Chups project. Philip brought his surrealist take on Chupa Chups to Brand Licensing Europe with the event’s first fashion catwalk. Inspired by Dalì and Magritte, these outfits and graphics were functional for luxury furniture design brand Altreforme to showcase an Altreforme x TheRodnikBand x Chupa Chups collection during the next Salone del Design in Milan – when the ‘multi-partners collaborations’ were yet to be born.
What do you feel is key to a fruitful collaboration between licensees and licensors?
Brand values must always be at center stage for licensees and licensors, and the creative ways to manifest them must be clearly pointed out. Although obvious, I find this is not always the case in the day-by-day practice – that’s why I love the Perfetti van Melle team and their ongoing creative efforts to get the most out of the licensees’ output. United in a close relationship between the two parties to share values and ideas… This is key to get good results.
Great answer. And what fuels your own creativity? What helps you have ideas?
I would say ‘a beer’.
Ha!
But to be serious… I think ‘curiosity’ is the key word. I always try to get out of the box, in every way, but especially physically… Window shopping, watching people on the street, going to the cinema or art exhibitions, talking to people – professionals or friends. You may call me a boomer – I am, by the way – but I prefer to be in real contact with things and connect the dots, rather than swapping Instagram or TikTok.
Paolo, this has been great. Thanks again!
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